DEFINITIONS

 

  TRAINING SESSION

  All the exercises including the warm up, undertaken before a long rest (hours)

                                                            

  NUMBER OF REPS

 The number of times that you repeat the exercise.

If I can do 10 consecutive pull ups, I can say that I have done 10 reps.

                             

 SETS

 All the reps together form a set

 For example: pull ups on the pull up bar: if I can do 10 consecutive pull ups, I rest, then I complete another 10 consecutive pull ups I can say that I did the exercise (pull ups) x 10 reps x 2 sets

 

 6x6x6

 This is the typical formula for high level training (it can vary) and it means that we will do 6 different exercises (for e.g. campus board, pull ups on one arm,2 arm dynos, layaways, one arm dynos) Each one of which I have done with 6 consecutive movements (reps) 6 times, (6 sets). It is useful to have a blackboard on which to write down the sets done!

 

 RECOVERY TIME

 Means rest, that can be both active or passive, that goes between the sessions: hours or days

 The sets: a few minutes always written out where the exercises are explained??

 The different exercises: the time needed to rest when you change type of exercise, usually very long (the maximum time possible, relative to the time that you have for the whole training session)

 

 THE INTENSITY

 It is an intuitive concept, but not easily quantifiable. When we are dealing with exercises that are not specifically linked to climbing movements, such as pull ups, we can define it as the percentage of someone’s max. power. 100% is when I am able to do only one rep. For levels of intensity close to one’s max (from 60% upwards) direct comparison between percentage and max. power and number of reps achievable was induced experimentally.

 

                                                 

 

 

For lower intensities it isn’t possible to say how many reps can de done, since at lower levels of intensities there are other factors that come into play. With regards to exercises which are specific to climbing on walls, as on routes or on crags, the concept of intensity is less quantifiable and would need to be applied to single movements along the route, since all the movements done on a climbing wall are so different one from another.

We can say that approximately if the route is homogenous I can calculate it counting the number of movements that I can do at my max: if I can do a boulder move only once it will be 100%, a route of 15 movements that I can climb 3 consecutive times is 30/40% etc. In no case will the grade be identifiable with the intensity of the route. In fact I can climb an 8b that I know off by heart, 3 consecutive times, while getting to the chain exhausted after climbing a 7b of the same length but that I do not know at all.

 

USE OF HAND HOLDS

You can use hand holds in the following way:

From top to bottom

From bottom to top

From left to right

From right to left.

As well as the infinite intermediate directions that I choose to ignore here.

While a horizontal hold or an undercut hold a vertical hold held from the left can become a shoulder hold or “turned” if I hold it with my right hand and vice versa. To not cause confusion, remember that the adjective “vertical” and “horizontal” refers to the hold and not the way it is used.

 

 

 HORIZONTAL

 Hold that is held with your right or left hand from the top to the bottom.

 

    

 

 

 VERTICAL

 Hold that is held with your left hand pulling towards the right, or turning 180degrees, pulling with your right hand towards the left hand side.

 

    

 

 

 

 UNDERCUT HOLD

 Hold that is held both with your right and left bottom up.

 

 

    

 

 

 

 

 SHOULDERMOVEMENT

 Vertical hold  pointing left to right, that is held with your right hand pulling towards the right, or turning it 180 degrees with your left hand pulling towards the left.

 

    

 

 

 

 

 

 LAYAWAY/SIDEPULL

 Vertical hold (pointing left to right) held with your right hand but turning your arm and wrist 360 degrees compared to your shoulder.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

    

 

 

 

The training shown on this website can cause serious damage to your body, especially to your muscular skeletric apparatus, and in certain subjects it can also affect the cardiovascular system. 

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