EDITORIAL

 

JP system is a training programme based on practical elements. After almost 20 years of sports climbing and experimenting on myself, and 12 years training my students (at different climbing gyms in Rome: Club Lanciani, Corpea, Casilina and now back to Lanciani) I have noticed how certain methods work, others do not, some cause a deterioration in you performance while others are simply bad for you.

I have helped people climb 8a (5.13d) based on endurance, people who have never climbed this grade before just by training their strength and technique.

But these successes cannot be attributed to the coach simply because someone who climbs an 8a is already good enough to do so on his/her own.

I have helped anyone I have trained to reach 6b (5.10c/d).  This success can be attributed to me, as a coach.  All my above experiences are what I define a “real” gym (what you are reading on this web site is a gym as well) but we can now call it a “virtual” gym.

Anything that decreases someone’s fitness is something I no longer use in my training programme, neither in my real gym nor in this “virtual” gym.  Instead, I will suggest for both my gyms everything that works.

The big difference comes from the things that can be considered useless. In my real gym I keep using them because they are fun to do, and many climbers only want to climb for fun, not giving a damn about the rock, and I like it when they enjoy themselves. Here it is different. You are too far away for me to hear you. Every little thing will be aimed at your real improvement on real rock.

 

Theory, which is all based on experience and is extremely important is the following:

 

TECHNIQUE:

The majority of all our movements are not instinctive, but have to be absorbed and made into automatic movements.

       a)      To be automatic and without the use of our brain, which would slow us down, and cause our climbing to become tense and fragmented, (it should be like calculating the differential equation between centrifugal and centripetal force to know how far down to angle my motorbike as I approach a bend) as we search for a series of holds we should undertake as a set of movements in a natural, continuous, flowing motion.

      b)      To learn and then repeat many times a multitude of movements and schemes, which are in no way instinctive, to then forget them. To manifest them with your body, through your body, with an empty but alert mind. In fact our brain is too slow in terms of transferring information, whereas our body which has been trained sufficiently perceives movement by intuition, therefore it feels instantly what it is supposed to do.  This will occur if our minds are not too anxious since anxiety would inhibit our ability to move.  Bad use of technique brings disastrous effects i.e. if I forget to forget: I THINK THEREFORE I FALL.

 

POWER:

There is no technique without power, there is no strength without power. For example a FIAT 500 car which drives at a maximum of 120km/h (72mph) burns and wastes more energy than a larger cylinder car which will comfortably drive at 120km/h.

You might have super technique without power, but if you have to push yourself to a maximum on a 6a you will never be able to express all your grace.

 

 

 

 

 

The training shown on this website can cause serious damage to your body, especially to your muscular skeletric apparatus, and in certain subjects it can also affect the cardiovascular system. 

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