JP system is a training programme based on practical elements. After almost 20 years of sports climbing and experimenting on myself, and 12 years training my students (at different climbing gyms in Rome: Club Lanciani, Corpea, Casilina and now back to Lanciani) I have noticed how certain methods work, others do not, some cause a deterioration in you performance while others are simply bad for you.
I have helped people climb 8a (5.13d) based on endurance, people who have never climbed this grade before just by training their strength and technique.
these successes cannot be attributed to the coach simply because someone who
climbs an 8a is already good enough to do so on his/her own.
have helped anyone I have trained to reach 6b (5.10c/d).
This success can be attributed to me, as a coach.
All my above experiences are what I define a “real” gym (what you are
reading on this web site is a gym as well) but we can now call it a
that decreases someone’s fitness is something I no longer use in my training
programme, neither in my real gym nor in this “virtual” gym.
Instead, I will suggest for both my gyms everything that works.
big difference comes from the things that can be considered useless. In my real
gym I keep using them because they are fun to do, and many climbers only want to
climb for fun, not giving a damn about the rock, and I like it when they enjoy
themselves. Here it is different. You are too far away for me to hear you. Every
little thing will be aimed at your real improvement on real rock.
which is all based on experience and is extremely important is the following:
majority of all our movements are not instinctive, but have to be absorbed and
made into automatic movements.
automatic and without the use of our brain, which would slow us down, and cause
our climbing to become tense and fragmented, (it should be like calculating the
differential equation between centrifugal and centripetal force to know how far
down to angle my motorbike as I approach a bend) as we search for a series of
holds we should undertake as a set of movements in a natural, continuous,
and then repeat many times a multitude of movements and schemes, which are in no
way instinctive, to then forget them. To manifest them with your body, through
your body, with an empty but alert mind. In fact our brain is too slow in terms
of transferring information, whereas our body which has been trained
sufficiently perceives movement by intuition, therefore it feels instantly what
it is supposed to do. This will
occur if our minds are not too anxious since anxiety would inhibit our ability
to move. Bad use of technique
brings disastrous effects i.e. if I forget to forget: I THINK THEREFORE I FALL.
is no technique without power, there is no strength without power. For example a
FIAT 500 car which drives at a maximum of 120km/h (72mph) burns and wastes more
energy than a larger cylinder car which will comfortably drive at 120km/h.
might have super technique without power, but if you have to push yourself to a
maximum on a 6a you will never be able to express all your grace.
The training shown on this website can cause serious damage to your body, especially to your muscular skeletric apparatus, and in certain subjects it can also affect the cardiovascular system.
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