POWER

 

Muscular power is one of man’s motor skills, it helps us produce tension.

POWER COMES FROM THE BRAIN: from here, in fact an impulse is sent along the spinal cord to the muscle which then triggers off the contraction.

What determines these capacities is:

The size of the muscle, in particular its transverse section

The number of fibres that one is able to co-ordinate with the contraction

ONCE AGAIN THE PHYSICAL STATE STRONGLY DEPENDS ON THE MENTAL STATE.

Not only because the impulse physically leaves the brain, but also because to develop maximum tension I have to really want it, I have to be active and concentrated, but I also have to have it in me, it has already been ACQUIRED.

In my opinion, there is an argument tied to learning about power, that has always been neglected.

This goes further than technical issues, I am talking about LEARNING TO CO-ORDINATE AND RECRUIT MOTOR UNITS.

Even the simplest movement like hanging from an edge, where there is no need for technique, when done by an evolved athlete, whose brain already knows how to activate maximum tension is achieved more effectively than someone who does not have this ability.

WHOEVER HAS THIS ABILITY, HAS MORE STRENGTH COMPARED TO WHO DOESN’T HAVE THIS ABILITY, THE SAME WAY SOME PEOPLE’S RIGHT HAND IS STRONGER THAN THEIR LEFT.

This links us up to the reason why some people hang onto a hold open handed and others need to crimp on a thin edge or vice versa and this is why we have to learn how to use the fibres in every single situation. When we notice an improvement in how we hold edges or pockets after only a few training sessions, we have only “learned” the exercise. For the same reason that some of us are really weak on one or two finger pocket holds we cannot activate the motor skills because we have a strong and partly subconscious fear of tearing our tendons.

WE DON’T REALISE HOW MUCH INCREASE IN POWER WE CAN GAIN AT THESE LEVELS.  Without increasing mass and weight.

All this brings us to the following considerations:

Our improvement margin is a lot higher than we could have ever imagined.

Power can increase as you get older because these qualities take many years to develop and they compensate for the natural decrease that takes place. The morphological and structural changes that enable our phalanges (finger joints) to support  tension only develop after many years.

 

RELATIVE POWER

This is an important concept, however it is often overrated in sports climbing literature. We define relative power, as the relationship between absolute power and body weight. From this we deduct that two people who lift one,80kg and weighs 80kg, and the other who lifts 40kg and weighs 40kg have the same relative power. (ratio of 1:1).

The value of the relative power represents an important criteria of evaluation, but it is not possible as is usually done, to compare the same people with the same relative power. WE MUST NOT FORGET THAT PRESSURE ON OUR FINGERTIPS AND THE TENSION ON THE CAPSULES OF OUR FINGER JOINT’S ARTICULATION AND ON THE TENDONS DEPENDS ON THE SUM OF YOUR WEIGHT AND LOAD NOT ON THE RATIO!

Therefore he/she who weighs less than another person who has the same relative power, will have a better result, we can also say that on certain types of routes (especially those with small holds) the lighter person (less relative power, but with less body weight) will be more efficient.

 

 

 

 

 

The training shown on this website can cause serious damage to your body, especially to your muscular skeletric apparatus, and in certain subjects it can also affect the cardiovascular system. 

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