INTRODUCTION

 

If you use the training on this web site by following the illustrated exercises, casually, can be counterproductive and/or dangerous. It is not true that just any old training is better than nothing.

By not training at all (meaning that you still go climbing outside every now and then) maintains your current level, without increasing it, training badly or too often can be detrimental. Therefore anybody who wants to train on his/her own should observe the following suggestions:

      1)      It is better not to train than to train badly or too often.

      2)      High intensity + high volume = slump/crisis.

In other words if we make a set of moves in one training session, they have to be easy. If we make a set of very hard moves they have to be relatively fewer. There is no alternative, it is a rule that has to be followed all the time. Obviously “easy” and “hard” are a percentage of  what our maximum effort is. If I can climb an 8b consisting of 15 holds 3 times it is easier for me than a 7b onsight consisting of 15 holds, where I get to the chain with my muscles so tight that I cannot hold onto anything else.

Endurance (more than 30 moves) with short rests repeated many times = slump.

It isn’t true that you need long rests for power, and short rests for endurance. Some power training sessions, for example ones with short rests, stimulate the endogenous production of some hormones (for e.g. the growth hormone) this in turn favours a high degree of power, while endurance training followed in the usual way (short rests and long reps) (causes the body to break down and have to overcompensate in recovery times,) brings to a crisis and with extremely overcompensation recovery time

No to old isometric arm exercises (for e.g. lock offs at 90 degrees with one arm etc) not because they are not good for you, they are, even if only in part, but mainly because it has been proven that they are bad for your cardiovascular system.

No, to hanging on fingers for more than 20 seconds till exhaustion, with partial recovery (for e.g. hanging for to a max time with 30 seconds recovery, then repeating the max time with 30 seconds recovery. etc) These exercises intoxicate your muscles taking weeks to recover from the damage caused after such a training session (this is probably due to the way you get pumped, you can hardly move your hand, this is not only due to the lactic acid but to a deeper exhaustion of the muscle that controls the number and frequency of impulses.)

It is important to always do exercises with your natural body weight or with assistance. It is hardly ever necessary to use weights to increase the intensity of the exercise, all you need is to decrease the size of the holds or to move them further apart, or to work on one arm, etc.

 

 

     

 

The training shown on this website can cause serious damage to your body, especially to your muscular skeletric apparatus, and in certain subjects it can also affect the cardiovascular system. 

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