RULES FOR FINGER POSITIONS ON EDGES IN TRAINING.
fingers have to be extended as much as possible, in a way that your pinky is
holding the edge. Your thumb should not be used in training, neither on the
training board or the finger board. You can use it on the climbing wall or on
OF RECOVERY TIME BETWEEN EXERCISES
T’ = total time of training session
= the sum of total recovery time between sets (that is shown in the single
the sum of total time of performing
= the number of exercises.
time of recovery that is compatible with the available time one has to actually
train. If this is over 20 minutes you have to warm up again, all the time.
TO DETERMINE THE INTENSITY OF EACH EXERCISE
intensity of each exercise, apart from a technique exercise, has to be always at
a max in relation to the number of reps one can do. If the exercise requires 6
reps, I have to be able to do a max of 6. If I can do 8 obviously the intensity
is not right, and therefore I have to increase the intensity (for an exercise
requiring 6 pull ups on the pull up bar I have to find a load that means 6 is my
maximum, i.e. I cannot close the 7th pull up.)
TO VARY THE INTENSITY ON THE CAMPUS BOARD.
can be done if you have the possibility to put your feet on something in front
using your feet:
leaning up high smeared (not on an edge)
high on an edge (foot opposite to arm)
lower down on an edge
this is not enough, then vary the size and the distance of the edges.
FOR VARYING THE INTENSITY ON THE FINGER BOARD
is the same as what was mentioned above for the campus board, if you have the
possibility to lean your foot, if not, for JP6 or JP4 you can lighten the weight
using one or more elastics on a hook already placed. If not, where it is
required increase weight.
the size of the edge
the distance between edges for dynamic exercises.
RULES FOR DESCENDING DYNOS
you fall back onto an edge, either with one or two hands, to “bounce” back
down, you have to absorb the shock with your arms slightly bent, i.e. the
elbow’s articulation must never end the descent with your shoulders and arms
with your arms stretched out would be less training (because I am stopping
myself mechanically and not by an eccentric contraction) and it is more
If you feel that you cannot absorb the fall with you arms, it is worth letting go of the hold.
FOR ASCENDING DYNOS
the same reasons that were used in “RULES FOR DESCENDING DYNOS” you have to
land on the edge quite heavily and absorb the fall with your arms slightly bent.
FOR WARMING UP
2 sets of each exercise that aims to work at a lower intensity, roughly 40% (for e.g. for pull ups, if I weigh 60kg and I have a max. effort of 40kg (100kg total) it means that I have to unload 20 kg to work at my 40% effort) Not to go wrong, it is worth doing two extra, really easy sets before every exercise.
The training shown on this website can cause serious damage to your body, especially to your muscular skeletric apparatus, and in certain subjects it can also affect the cardiovascular system.
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