GENERAL RULES

 

RULES FOR FINGER POSITIONS ON EDGES IN TRAINING. 

Your fingers have to be extended as much as possible, in a way that your pinky is holding the edge. Your thumb should not be used in training, neither on the training board or the finger board. You can use it on the climbing wall or on outdoor crags.

 

                                   

 

RULES OF RECOVERY TIME BETWEEN EXERCISES

T’-  (T’’+T’’’)

         N
T’ = total time of training session

T” = the sum of total recovery time between sets (that is shown in the single exercises)

T’’’= the sum of  total time of performing the exercises

N  =  the number of exercises.

Maximum time of recovery that is compatible with the available time one has to actually train. If this is over 20 minutes you have to warm up again, all the time.

 

RULE TO DETERMINE THE INTENSITY OF EACH EXERCISE

The intensity of each exercise, apart from a technique exercise, has to be always at a max in relation to the number of reps one can do. If the exercise requires 6 reps, I have to be able to do a max of 6. If I can do 8 obviously the intensity is not right, and therefore I have to increase the intensity (for an exercise requiring 6 pull ups on the pull up bar I have to find a load that means 6 is my maximum, i.e. I cannot close the 7th pull up.)

 

RULE TO VARY THE INTENSITY ON THE CAMPUS BOARD.

This can be done if you have the possibility to put your feet on something in front of you:

Without using your feet:

Foot leaning up high smeared (not on an edge)

Foot high on an edge (foot opposite to arm)

Foot lower down on an edge

If this is not enough, then vary the size and the distance of the edges.

 

RULE FOR VARYING THE INTENSITY ON THE FINGER BOARD

This is the same as what was mentioned above for the campus board, if you have the possibility to lean your foot, if not, for JP6 or JP4 you can lighten the weight using one or more elastics on a hook already placed. If not, where it is required increase weight.

Vary the size of the edge

Vary the distance between edges for dynamic exercises.

 

RULES FOR DESCENDING DYNOS

                                   

 

When you fall back onto an edge, either with one or two hands, to “bounce” back down, you have to absorb the shock with your arms slightly bent, i.e. the elbow’s articulation must never end the descent with your shoulders and arms stretched out.

Falling with your arms stretched out would be less training (because I am stopping myself mechanically and not by an eccentric contraction) and it is more dangerous.

If you feel that you cannot absorb the fall with you arms, it is worth letting go of the hold.

RULES FOR ASCENDING DYNOS

 

                             

 

For the same reasons that were used in “RULES FOR DESCENDING DYNOS” you have to land on the edge quite heavily and absorb the fall with your arms slightly bent.

 

RULES FOR WARMING UP

2 sets of each exercise that aims to work at a lower intensity, roughly 40% (for e.g. for pull ups, if I weigh 60kg and I have a max. effort of 40kg (100kg total) it means that I have to unload 20 kg to work at my 40% effort) Not to go wrong, it is worth doing two extra, really easy sets before every exercise.

 

 

 

 

 

The training shown on this website can cause serious damage to your body, especially to your muscular skeletric apparatus, and in certain subjects it can also affect the cardiovascular system. 

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